The fish that wants a red — and three that prove it
Salmon is the exception that breaks the white-wine-with-fish rule, and it breaks it for a good reason: it is oily, meaty and assertive in a way that white fish is not. Its fat needs acidity, and its richness can carry light tannin, which is why Pinot Noir has become the standard answer. How the salmon is cooked matters more than usual — smoke from a grill or a cedar plank pushes the pairing towards savoury reds, while a herb-roasted fillet leaves room for something finer.
Pinot Noir • $55
Flowers Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir is our recorded pairing for cedar-plank salmon, and the smoke is what it is built for. A cool maritime salinity in the nose is an unusually literal match for fish, and the bright, mouthwatering acidity handles the oil. Red cherry and cranberry stay fresh and crunchy — light enough that the salmon still leads.
Pinot Noir • $55
Belle Glos Clark & Telephone is the richer choice, and it is our note for grilled salmon specifically. Velvety and opulent with chocolate-covered cherries and dark berry compote, it has the weight for a fillet that has taken real char. Where the Flowers steps back, this one meets the dish head-on — the right call if the salmon is glazed or heavily seasoned.
Pinot Noir • $85
Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve is our match for salmon with herbs, and the forest floor and dried rose petals that open the nose are why. Silky and mid-weight with juicy raspberry and red plum over exotic spice, and acidity that is bright without being sharp — sharp acidity is what makes a wine taste metallic next to fish. At $85 it is the best pairing here for the money.
Champagne • $350
Dom Pérignon Rosé 2009 with grilled salmon is our recorded pairing and an argument for rosé Champagne with food generally. Ripe red berries and blood orange over toasted brioche, with a fleshy, Pinot-led texture and a fine, persistent mousse that resets the palate after every oily bite. Full-bodied and generous — this has the substance a lesser Champagne would lack against salmon.
Let the cooking method choose. Cedar plank or smoke wants the Flowers; a hard-charred or glazed fillet wants the Belle Glos; herbs and a gentle roast want the Domaine Serene, which is the bottle we would buy first at $85. The Dom Pérignon Rosé is for the occasion where salmon happens to be dinner rather than the point of it.
Get our top pick — Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve · $85Affiliate Disclosure: We may earn a commission from your purchase at no extra cost to you.
The background on what is in these bottles.